Day 4

Saturday, September 17

Sleep doesn't come easily, I'm too excited about what the day will bring. The weather rewards my being up early with a glorious sunrise while I sit against the trunk of a pine and write. Heiko is up early as well and takes a sun bath on one of the rocks.

Thick, grey clouds start gathering as we set out for Västervik, also the wind increases and the harbour doesn't look at all inviting as we wait for the guy from the kayak rental, Magnus, who presently arrives on his son's moped. He's very nice and invites me to try the kayak beforehand and asks me if I do any other kinds of sports which I, not quite truthfully, affirm. The kayak is uncomfortably wobbly, like really slow cycling, when I make the first strokes around the harbor and I'm at a loss how to turn it around and get back to the starting point but within minutes floating on the water feels really great and the wobbly feeling is gone too. So we're doing this!

There's lots of space for our luggage, we also get dry bags for our phones, some laminated maps and hints for some extra beautiful places to stay the night, one pretty close to the harbor and one a little farther out. We pack our stuff and set out, me getting into the kayak with Heiko's help, Heiko, who's done this before, is on his own - we both manage without falling in.

I'm having trouble with the technique and not exactly making top speed which becomes extra frustrating as we leave the harbor area and move into more open waters where wind and waves are against us. As we near the first island Magnus mentioned I'm exhausted, wet - as I'v splashed around a bit with the paddle, the splash guard has soaked through - and freezing, the wind is making me shiver and the sky is a steely grey. We retreat into the woods, drink some leftover tea from breakfast which is still slightly warm and try to work out what to do next. We could stay on this island, it's beautiful but it's not exactly remote, there are stays and houses to be seen some 100 meters across the water, motorboats and jetskis are crossing on their way from the harbour. Also I'm not ready to give up yet so we set out again.
I'm starting to get the hang of this thing and the weather is clearing up too. Slowly we make our way between islands, some big, some mere rocks barely poking out of the water. With the kayaks we can cross flats where the water would hardly cover our knees and see the rocks and vegetation below us. Also I am in charge of the maps and have to navigate which is easy at first but at some point I'm lost. Luckily there are people close by on one of the island who are willing to help out.

On the last 100 meters to our goal the sea is rougher. I don't see it at first, only when I'm uncomfortably lifted up by a wave coming from the side, then sink down again. I panic for a second there but it all works out well enough and suddenly we're through, some rocks shield us from the surf again and the water is almost mirror smooth as we make for tonight's home.

 

 

The island is a round hill about 60 meters wide poking out of the water, loosely covered with pines, the ground rocks grown over with the softest moss. It's warm, the wind is gone and suddenly it feels very much like summer at the seaside. We explore the island like we're the first people there and right now we're definitely the only ones!

 

As the sun starts to sink we pitch the tent on a mossy knoll with a great view of the sea - I guess one would be hard pressed to find a spot without a view of the sea on this island - and pick a sheltered spot for a campfire under some pines.

 

By the beautifully fragrant fire we have tea and mushroom soup and I'm having some trouble with my left arm which hurts rather badly whenever I move it the tiniest bit. Wriggling into the sleeping bag is a rather painful exercise and I wonder whether I'll be able to kayak back tomorrow. With the help of some Ibuprofen I fall asleep.